Bread

While Jennifer has been writing about butter, I have been eating bread and planning a blog post on the topic.

Bottom line: The bread is tasty !!

In Paris, there are bakeries all around. The french still shop daily, so while there are supermarkets and such – there is an economy for small neighborhood shops for everything: butchers, greengrocers and bakeries. I also read this in the Wikipedia article

French bread is required by law to avoid preservatives, and as a result bread goes stale in under 24 hours, thus baking baguettes is a daily occurrence, unlike sourdough bread which is baked generally once or twice a week, due to the natural preservatives in a sourdough starter.

Where we live it seems like there are even more bakeries than the average – see the map below with markers of some of the bakeries around our apartment. Click on the markers  for notes and pictures.


View Bakeries near us in a larger map

We have been eating primarily baguette, but the bakeries are full of different breads, not  all long loafs are baguette (which literally mean stick). If you go and ask at the bakery for baguette, you will get something different than if you ask for baguette tradition which is also typically 5 or 10 centimes more expensive.

Now what makes one baguette better that others? Well it’s about texture and flavor of both the crust and the sponge. In baguette the top crust should be crisp but still chewy, the bottom firm and chewy. And then the flavor of the dough.

Every year Paris runs a competition for the best baguette. The winner gets a contract for a year to deliver to the presidential palace. In 5 of the 6 past years the winner has been from the 18th arrondissement where we live. We have tasted the baguette at the winners of 2012,2011,2010 – all walking distance from our house, though two of them are on the other  side of the “hill”.

My favorite bread and the one we tend to get most often is “la Parisse” from a close-by bakery which makes a bread recipe designed by Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF), Gaëtan Paris (yes that’s his name). The bread is baked by selected bakeries. The Parisse (according to his website), get its flavor from natural fermentation. Its a very mild sourdough.  With Jennifer’s butter  its heaven.

I’ll end with a bread story. I am in my sweats walking back home from the other side of the hill back home with a baguette sticking out of a short bag which I had been eating from the end. A french tourist guide with an English speaking group roaming Monmartre stopped me to take a group picture and explained to the one of the tourist that “this is how the French eat their baguette on the way home from the bakery.”


Misc Update


We are behind on posting. I have been working on a bread post that I *will* finish today !! we were in Toulouse a couple weeks ago for 5 days, and are headed for a a long weekend to London tomorrow. I am excited about going on the EuroStar – 2 1/4 hours to London !!!

Feeling that this is the end of our Paris stay – we leave at the end of the month and I have a feeling   haven’t really done much. We have also started spending time on planning the African part of the trip which is coming up.

On the culinary front,  I have tried making Breton Galettes de Sarrasin (buckwheat pancakes) a couple of times – not quite as good as in Bretagne – but not too shabby.

We washed the Crepes down with some Gaillac wine we purchased from Christophe (pic below), a chatty wine shop owner in Albi. The wine is made of Braucol grapes an old variety that is a relative of Cabernet Sauvignon – very nice.

Speaking of wine merchants, we stopped by a local shop yesterday and spent 30-40 minutes chatting with the owner – a very colorful guy. He opened some white wine – drank with us and offered more to other folks that walked into the shop that he chatted up. Talked about wine, cigarettes and smoking, Obama and sex.  His charm does work.. we left with 4 bottles 😉

We have two sets of friends coming next week  and the end of the month – so maybe they will drive us to be a bit more touristy and see some of the sights we still would like to see.

 

Isaba, Espagne

A few snaps here from a languishing draft that should have been posted along with Pays Basque.

Isaba is on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees in the province of Navarre.  We passed through the tiny mountain town (pop. about 500) on our way to a hike in the Vale de Belagua.  Although distinctive from the French side, the architecture here is typically Basque.

For history and hiking enthusiasts, the area is a must-do.

 

La Roche-aux-Fées

Next stop, one of Bretagne’s many megaliths – La Roche-aux-Fées (Rock of the Fairies).  The monument is made up of 42 mammoth sized purple palaeozoic schist stones.  Naturally, legend says the fairies built it.

Vitré

Fans of the medieval will love Vitré  (on map).  It has an enormous fairytale castle, and architecture buffs will appreciate its high concentration of timber-framed houses with overhanging porches.  We arrived on a Monday, when shops are closed and the streets empty.  We had all the narrow alley ways to ourselves.  Had we not run across a kebab shop or cobblestone workers blasting the Euro-pop, we could have been in the 15th century.

Madame de Sévigné, beloved queen of French letters, lived here.

Perfect Saturday along Canal St Martin

Alliance Francais

I just completed 3 weeks of intensive french at Alliance Francaise. It’s been probably 20+ years since I last studied french (at AF in New York) and over 10 years since I visited France and used my French. I am at level where I can get by with  day to day stuff, can understand quite a lot, but have difficulty speaking (make many errors) and can’t easily have a deep discussion. I was extremely rusty, but the past 3 weeks have been very useful. Reviewed lots of the grammar and things are slowly coming back. Manage to spend the whole evening speaking mostly only french with local friends….

Class was 5 days a week from 1:30pm-5:30pm at AF in the Latin Quarter. 20 minutes on the metro from our Apartment.

I was joined in class by an eclectic and fun group of people with a wide range of nationalities: (Ecuador, Japan, Russia, Poland, Austria, USA, China, Iran,  Spain, Ukraine, Italy, Turkey), Ages (18-60+) and professions (Doctor, Au pair and priest to name a few). Everyone is eager to learn and we all spoke French to each other during breaks. Teachers (Tony and Miriem) are excellent with a great attitude and materials are also well thought out. The picture is from a student organized cheese  tasting last Friday after Class:

Next week I’ll start a Oral workshop twice a week and continue doing some self study on solidifying what we worked on in the past 3 weeks.

P.S – Jennifer is close to fluent in French (though she denies it ;-))

 

Valle de Belagua Hike

We did two day hikes while in Pays Basque, one in France, the other in Spain. I particularly liked this one in the Valle de Belagua, Spain as it was extremely diverse . The area is just on the border of France and Spain and we had read that there were karst (see wikipedia) formations in the area – so we asked the tourist office if they could suggest any hikes. The person at the tourist office said there were no organized trails and sent us to a cross country ski area and said we should walk the trails. When we got to the area – we couldn’t figure where to go, but across the parking lot was a trail-head so we decided to try it. We were not disappointed.  Photos and videos below:

Pays Basque – Goats on the Road to Spain

Free range goats.

Lounging goats.

In the spirit of killing time and getting lost, we decided to take the scenic route from St. Jean Pied de Port to St. Jean de Luz (both in France) via Spain.   We’d been sampling a lot of goat cheese along the way, trying to figure out why it’s so tasty.  We’re guessing it’s the daily workout high in the Pyrenees.

Goat cheese in all its pretty packages.

More Pays Basque – A Traditional Liqueur

Prunelle (wild plum) trees.

Jean-Marie.

What trip would be complete without tasting the local brews?  We met Jean-Marie at the daily market, a vendor who introduced us to Patxaran (also spelled Basaran).  As Jean-Marie tells it, Patxaran is an “ancient traditional” Basque liqueur of prunelle and anise.  Prunelle is a native species of “wild” plum.  (I say “wild” because he actually cultivates the trees on his farm in order to produce the liqueur.)  We  dropped by his farm one evening for aperatif and a tour of the prunelle orchard.  Over glasses of his home concoctions, he regaled us with tales of his three months travelling Israel and some key points about Basque political history.  The night ended with a plea for the upcoming U.S. presidential race.  Jean-Marie says, “Please.  Please give Obama more time.  We finally feel like we have a real partner.”  He didn’t quite understand the expression “preaching to the choir” but we promised to do our part.

Jean-Marie’s farm outside Bayonne.