District Six Museum


We took a guided tour of the District Six Museum with a former District resident, Tahir Levy. That’s right, a Muslim-Jew. Before 1966, a multi-faith, multi-ethnic, multi-racial populace called District Six home. Despite the enforced segregation of the Apartheid government, the neighborhood managed to maintain much of its mixed identity. District Six represented all of Capetown’s inhabitants – black, white, brown, Christian, Muslim and Jew.

But the white governing Apartheid government put an end to co-existence with the citation of its Group Areas Act of 1950. Forced removal of the neighborhood’s black (native) residents actually began much earlier, but it wasn’t until 1966 that District Six was officially declared “for whites only.” Its residents were forced out of the city and their homes bulldozed.

The District Six Museum commemorates the destruction of a community as well as issues of displacement and forced removal. It pieces together memories of the neighborhood through installations of family photographs, original furniture and possessions, and the despised apartheid era signs and benches.

The Slave Lodge

,First-time visitors to Capetown will immediately notice the multi-multi nature of the city. As a result of the Dutch’s particular approach to slavery, Capetown today boasts one of the richest blends of people.

The Slave Lodge Museum is part of the UNESCO Slave Route Project, a commemorative exhibit to the abolition of worldwide slavery. The project aims to build and strengthen a culture of human rights and increase awareness of contemporary issues around equality, peace and justuce. The building itself was the official slave stock house for the V.O.C., the Dutch East Indies Company.

It was the Dutch East Indies Company who introduced slavery to The Cape in 1658, some 39 years after America’s first batch of slaves. In 1652 they had set up a refreshment station for ships running the spice trade routes. The Dutch liked the area so much, they decided to establish a permanent colony, which of course meant they’d need a few more people to get the work done.

The Company did not allow the enslavement of local populations, the Khoe-San. The Khoe-San made important trading partners in the beginning, but eventually they, too, ended up virtual slaves through The Company’s indentured servant program.

Cape slaves were not part of the trans-Atlantic trade, meaning boats did not typically drop off West African slaves on their way to the Americas. The first two groups of slaves brought in 1658 did come from the western regions of Angola and Benin, and later African groups came from Madagascar and Mozambique. Along this east African route, a slave ship could lose up to 15% of its slave cargo. The trans-Atlantic slave ships lost 20% – 30%.

In fact, the majority of South Africa’s slaves were not African but Asian. India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia and the entire Indonesian archipeligo provided the largest proportion. Smaller numbers came from Thailand, Japan, Burma, the Phillipines and even the Middle East.

Unlike the American trade, slaves in South Africa were seldom raid acquisitions. Instead, The Company took advantage of famines, when families would sell other members into slavery. Or, they got slaves from war captives, shipped out by rival tribes. Others were acquired by an individual’s inability to pay a debt or a fine. Many were born into slavery.

I’ve already forgotten the exact numbers, but just like the American colonies, slaves quickly outnumbered white Europeans many, many times over. Combined with local populations and later immigration trends, ethnic diversity throughout South Africa will surprise those who aren’t aware of the country’s slave past.

Capetown Highlights

Today is Saturday the 12th, marking nearly two weeks in South Africa and the end of five days in Capetown. Sorry folks, no pictures as we are low tech on this portion of the trip. Nevertheless, pictures aren’t necessary to say that Capetown should be on everyone’s travel bucket list. The city offers something for everyone – rigorous butt-kicking hikes, super yummy tasty cuisine, well-designed museums that chronicle the city’s turbulent history, plenty of gorgeous beaches, impressive shopping, did I mention the great food?

I’ll get to the highlights shortly but let me say here that we had a very easy time in Capetown. For all the fear-mongering in the travel guides, we never felt unsafe or uneasy. It’s obvious from the gates, guards and fences that violent crime is an issue, but nobody tried to hijack us in broad daylight and walking around the main drags of the city during the day felt like any city without the reputation. That being said, locals we met did advise against walking around certain areas at night and stressed the importance of driving or taking a taxi. Given the neighborhood we live in back home, and considering unchecked gun violence throughout the American suburb, who’s to say South African streets are any less safe?

Overall, Capetown will appeal strongly to outdoor adventurers, winos and history buffs who follow slave trade routes and civil rights struggles. In our four short days, we climbed Table Mountain, learned all about the Indian Ocean slave trade (as opposed to the Trans-Atlantic), visited the District Six Museum, drank some Cape blend red, caught a musical and visited Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners were kept). We also arranged a township tour to Langa, Capetown’s oldest township.

Details coming up. I’ve about had it with this tablet keyboard : (

Tip of africa

we got our first glimpse of the indian ocean when we arrived this afternoon in Arniston. we are staying in a cottage that is thatched with native grass. we are a few kilometers from cape agulhas – the southernmost tip of africa and the boundary between the atlantic and indian oceans.

image

image

posting from phone or tablet so will be not as attentive as we’d normally be to spelling ,capitalization and punctuation.

some catchup posts to follow.

Mussels

We ate fresh mussels. FRESH! Picked right off the rock by our very own Ofer, Great Catcher of Mussels! Words will do no justice to the sublime freshness of our meal.  There is fresh seafood and then there is the taste of the ocean in every bite.  Seafood markets never again will be able to live up to the freshness of mussles only hours from rock to pot.

New Years in South Africa

We celebrated the New Year by climbing the KleinHangklip (Afrikaans for “small hanging rock”) above Rooi Elis to see the sun rise.


View Larger Map

We are staying with Marti & Illah and their children who bought  a house here in Rooi Els a few years ago and spend summer and winter holidays in South Africa. It is a small town within a nature reserve. Today was incredibly windy – Illah wanted us to pick mussels at the beach for lunch, but the wind was very strong and waves were too big- so we had to be satisfied with watching the big waves crashing on the rocks.

The wind here is notoriously strong – can gust to 160 Km/H – one of the reasons there were many shipwreck around the Cape of Good Hope.